Buenos Aires
The city of Buenos Aires gets a lot of love. Frequently rated as a top city in any tour of South America, Buenos Aires is lauded as the New World city of romance. Named by many as the Paris of Latin America, it is the home of Tango, French facades and Italian immigrants of every stripe.
Make no mistake, Buenos Aires is the Latin American city for lovers of grand European cities. In the early twentieth century, Argentina had one of the largest economies in the world. While some people have the misguided belief that Buenos Aires is like other Latino cities, a short stay will quickly change that opinion. The city is of massively European descent. It has been since it’s founding. The city shows its Eurocentric mind set with its wide tree lined boulevards, imported facades, busts and sculptures. Its nineteenth century surface grandeur screams Belle Epoque and it is a point of pride for many Porteños (a Buenos Aires native).
Love the arts? Buenos Aires is chock full of art museums such as the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes and the Buenos Aires Museum of Modern Art. But my personal favorite is MALBA. MALBA is the museum that reminds you that you are indeed in Latin America. Featuring works by artists Diego Luna and Frida Kahlo, this museum houses some of the great Latino works of art from the twentieth century. Following the city’s current of romance, Kahlo and Rivera are the quintessential example of the turbulent love story.
Its connections to Europe are even reflected in many of its staple Argentinian foods. While many regions of Latin America draw a strong influence from traditional native cuisine or African style food prep, many of the must-eats in BA have a firm identity in Europe. The city is known for its patisseries, steak houses, cafés, and all things Italian. From pasta to the signature Argentine version of pizza known as Fugazzetta (think pizza bread) this city lives and breathes its European descent. Even the Argentine empanada is baked instead of fried, unlike much of the rest of Latin America. As a man with Caribbean blood, it pains me to admit I was a quick convert to the baked empanada and have yet to try a Caribbean style empanada that can compete. The city’s soul is clearly found in its food.
Argentina has recently undergone decades of economic instability. For many reasons ranging from corruption and widespread tax evasion to failed socialist policies, the Argentine peso has been left in a perennial state of flux. Though the hyper-inflation is nowhere near the levels of Venezuela, it is quite problematic. Consequently, the American dollar is the de-facto savings unit and legal method of property purchase.
To demonstrate the currency madness, on my first visit to Buenos Aires in January 2014, the official exchange rate was approximately 8 pesos to the dollar. As of the date of this post it is up to 39 pesos on the dollar. This has opened up a black market currency exchange dealing in American dollars. Be sure to seek out Dollar Blue locations when exchanging money. Though the official exchange rate was 8 pesos (on my first visit) I was able to exchange my USD for about 16 pesos to the dollar at a Dollar Blue. The country was immediately on sale to me for 50% off. At the time of this writing, the Dollar Blue exchange is close to being matched with the official rate but check the rates frequently as this could change any time.
If you can, plan a visit around a spike in the Dollar Blue rate and wait to get to Dollar Blue Casa de Cambio before exchanging money. Just make sure you spend it all before you leave – in most countries the Argentine peso is not accepted at currency exchanges.
Buenos Aires is one of a few cities on Earth that offers excellent choices for men’s shopping. When it comes to men’s shopping, I would put Buenos Aires on the highest level along with cities like London and Tokyo. But of course there are limitless shopping options for ladies.
Because of its strong identity as a European city, Buenos Aires has certain traditions which extend back to France, Italy and Spain. As a result, there are many old independent shops selling master craft items, particularly leather jackets (though the city is also known for purses and shoes). You can buy top quality handmade products at a fraction of the cost elsewhere in the world if you go when the Dollar Blue rate is high. Buenos Aires is undoubtedly a global shopping capital. Who doesn’t love a little retail therapy?
Love antiques or just general bric-a-brac? San Telmo’s Sunday market is the place for you. On my first visit to Buenos Aires, I bought a set of gaucho knives. Why? I don’t really know but I like them and they’re the coolest and sharpest knives I own. Even if you don’t buy anything, the old neighborhood and cobble stone streets make for a charming stroll. Grab a coffee and a media luna. Don’t forget to wear sturdy shoes.
Want to see what the cool kids are wearing? Palermo Soho is your young and chic go to neighborhood. As long as you’re there, stop in for a burger at The Burger Joint. Their burger is more inspiring than their name.
Is classic style and downtown energy more of your thing? Retiro and Recoleta are your neighborhoods. My favorite part about these areas of Buenos Aires is the high amount of independent stores to visit. Rossi y Caruso and Casa Lopez Cuero are two of my favorites for leather goods, particularly coats.
The best part of the Retiro and Recoleta neighborhoods is the amount of independent stores in business since the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. They have seen many different clients over the years, including European royalty. Being a hipster at heart, I love to see small independent businesses doing their thing and selling products you can’t just buy in every mall in every city across the world. Products made by craftsmen from Argentina instead of factory workers in China.
In Chicago, my mother ran a successful and independent women’s clothing store during my upbringing. I’ve lived an excellent life partially because people still value independent businesses. The advent of globalization and the internet has greatly hindered the small and independent business owner. I can only imagine the difficulties these businesses have faced in a nation such as Argentina. I know firsthand that running a successful small business is a labor of love.
Finally, I would suggest any visitor consider seeing a tango show. Though it’s a very touristy experience, the shows are excellently choreographed and entertain even the non-dancers. And what better way to round out a trip to the city of love than to Tango?