Paris
One afternoon on my first visit to Paris, I was walking with my father in the Ile Saint-Louis. We were going to have a quick lunch at a nearby tourist trap which overlooks the Notre Dame. Before entering the restaurant I had been speaking Spanish and, being quite tired from jet lag, I accidentally began speaking to the waiter in Spanish. He spoke to me in French which I can't speak. We both then switched to English and had a laugh. I enjoyed a fantastic duck breast while the waiter identified different items in Spanish with an over the top Spanish accent. Silly Frenchie.
This memory has stuck with me because this was by far the friendliest waiter I ever met in Paris. It was a great, although brief, opportunity to dispel that notion of Parisians being cold and indifferent towards tourists.
Paris is a city that is both modern yet ancient with a perfect juxtaposition of art, culture and architecture. The beauty of the gardens of the Rodin as the magnificent Les Invalides dome looms in the background, the grand view of the Louvre from the top of the Musee D'Orsay, the ubiquitous Tour D'Eiffel and of course that ever present beauty which started it all: the winding Seine. The city could not have been laid out better and it is a feast for the eyes. The city is a wash with history too deep to ever truly penetrate.
I have a difficult time finding any aesthetic fault with the city, though it's all in the eye of the beholder I suppose. The Parisian way of life is not elaborate and sophisticated as the pervasive French mystique may lead some to believe. In fact it is far more simple in many ways than the typical American lifestyle. A true Parisian does not drive. Anyone who has tried driving in the city center can quickly see why. A true Parisian really does carry around a fresh loaf of bread in there bag or backpack on the metro.
Parisian's are not paricularly smug or arrogant (atleast not anymore smug than your stereotypical New Yorker). The difference between the Parisian and the New Yorker is that the Parisian lives in a glorious city filled with rich history, food, culture and architecture where as the New Yorker misguidedly believes the same.
The city's beauty is superbly followed up by the city's exquisite food. Again the Parisians' have it nailed. For some obvious classics, order duck (canard), rabbit (lapin), steak (boeuf) and of course escargot. For the vegetarians, you have the option of gorging at some of the most marvelous patisseries and boulangeries in the world. Vegans, you're on your own. Although like much of Europe I would not expect prompt service wherever you choose to dine (though I suppose it is the counter weight for the non existent European tipping system). In one of your outdoor/awning coffee sittings, notice the Parisian's impeccable sense of conservative style as they pass on the street.
Some things to be ready for:
1. By most U.S. standards the city is rife with highly agressive panhandler's and beggars. When you enter a highly toursited area just be aware of people standing around waiting for one of the multitude of tourists to approach. This could happen in mnay places but on my last visit the stairs to the Sacre Couer and the walk to the Moulin Rouge were the worst. Usually you can see them coming so just ignore and keep walking.
2. If you read my city review post above then you know: DON'T RENT A CAR to get around in the city center. For destinations far outside of the ring highway fo the Peripherique, then consider renting a car. Taking an hour to get to a patisserie which I could've walked to in ten minutes is infuriating. You'll have a far easier time getting around on the Metro. It may be intimidating but it will take you all of a minute to master the mapping and method of transit.
3. Restauarant service is lackluster at most establishments. This is not a uniquely French issue but generally European. The profit motive is weaker in Europe. Restaurants are not in a hurry to get you fed, get your money or get you out of their restaurant to make room for other customers. c'est la vie. Perhaps it's better this way? Not so much to me.
4. A city this geographically small with one of the highest tourist counts ever is going to lead to lines and crowds. Nothing you can do but accept. If you're from a small town or city this may surprise you but this is the case in most major cities int he world. Get used to it.
5. This city is not the best destination for nature lovers, those looking for undistubred ancient ruins or those looking for that beach resort getaway. If those are the kind of experiences you're looking for you've come to the wrong city.
6. This city is unlike ANY American city. Paris offers the best of many worlds in Western Europe but it is no ultra modern city of tomorrow. It does not offer grand skyscrapers, all night bowling and hot dogs on every corner.
7. French people speak far more English than American's speak French. Don't expect people to cater to you because you only speak English. Imagine if once or twice a day a French person came into your place of employment and got annoyed you weren't fluent in French. Your choices are basically to learn French (would you really though?) or just say "I don't speak French" and go back to work. Maybe this explains a little of the perceived rudeness? Maybe not. The French were also the top European power for several centuries until Napoleon went and mucked it all up, so they're understandably a tad sore about everyone speaking the language of their once rivals, England.
- Quick Tips
1. Invest in a Paris Museum Pass if you are planning on visiting museums and certain churches. It probably won't save you any money but it will definitely save you a lot of time standing in the ticket line (which is generally huge in the wrong season). You can usually go right to the entrance of most attractions coveredin the Paris Pass. All attractions covered in the Paris Museum Pass sell Paris Museum Passes. Obtain one at the first attraction you go to where they are sold. A hyperlink to the Paris Pass website is found right here www.parispass.com/paris-attractions/index.html.
2. If you are not on a very tight budget, consider buying Metro pass tickets. This will, in all likelihood, not save you a penny. It may in fact cost twice as much as what you would pay in Metro ticket fares around the city. Consider though that it will be a time saver in that you will get from one place to another much more rapidly by not waiting in any possible Metro ticket lines.
3. Stay in the first, second, third or fourth arrondissement for quick transit to major tour sights as many are in those neighborhoods. The Left and Right bank of the Seine are no longer really that different in terms of accomodations. If you do stay further out towards the perimeter of the city it really doesn't matter but in order to do more sightseeing it may be wise to take the Metro every morning into the city to save time.
4. Learn some token French. It's a show of good faith and a little respect for the French people which could go a long way. Of course it is definiely not required.
5. Be on the lookout for panhandlers and simply avoid the hustle. Not dangerous but highly obnoxious compared to the U.S.
- Itinerary Advice
The absolute must-do items (provided you are not a diehard fan of something very specific) are:
1. Towers of Notre Dame - go first thing in the morning to get to the front of the towers' line. Spectacular views of the heart of Paris and the epicenter of the nation of France.
2. Paris Catacombs - get there by or before 9:15 a.m. in non-peak tourist season (peak time being generally June, July and August) but likely earlier during those times. The line for this is long as the amount of people allowed is limited so early arrival is essential. First groups enter at 10 a.m. I have been to a number of other catacombs but this was excellent. It is more than just seeing bones but understandning the construction and a fundamental element of the city as well as some of the commoners who built it. If bones, skull and "sacreligious" treatment of skeletons upsets you than this isn't your place (but you should really consider sacking up if that is the case).
3. Jardin Du Luxembourg - grab a coffee and pastry at any time of day and come here to people watch and enjoy the beautiful grounds.
4. Musee Rodin - the beautiful grounds surrounding this museum are one of the loveliest in the city. Even if you aren't a fan of Rodin's castings found all over both the garden and the museum main building, you will still be able to appreciate an espresso and a croque monsieur.
5. Seine River Tour - enjoy a tour down the river that has been the life blood of the city since Roman times. Bridges (including my personal favorite the Pont Neuf) are easy to appreciate as well as many of Paris' iconic buildings. Companies and prices vary but almost all the main sights seen are the same.
6. Eiffel Tower - love it or hate it the Eiffel Tower should atleast be approached if not climbed to atleast understand it's iconic and divisive powers. If you are physically able, I would walk up the tower before taking the last elevator to the summit. Not only is this cheaper but it is also quicker because you are skipping the line. Views from the top are rewarding but if you cannot walk up the tower and the line for the elevators in excess of an hour than it is not something you'll die missing.
The above items are a personal preference but are quite generally enjoyed by many. The above items could EASILY and affordably be accomplished in a day. If you have more time then that (which I really hope you do) build an itinerary based on your own interests. For other sights and suggestions the city offers more options than I want to list. Other favorites of mine were the Musee D'Orsay (art museum formerly a train station), the Montmartre cemetery (I enjoy interesting cemeteries for some dark reason) and St. Dennis Basilica (dead royalty is very appealing to me). The places I have listed in my city review and my suggested itinerary are a small portion of the locations I visitted but these are my personal favorites so I only felt like writing about them as I enjoyed them so much. My suggestion is to do your own research into the history of the city or things you personally enjoy and build an itinerary based on that.