Day of the Dead
The Day of the Dead (or el Día de Los Muertos) is another oft misunderstood Latino holiday. Just as many Americans think Cinco de Mayo is Mexican Independence Day (its actually the celebration of the incredible military defeat of the French), Day of the Dead is often inaccurately thought of as "Mexican Halloween."
Growing up in Chicago, little was talked about this mysterious holiday. In much of the United States, Halloween is a celebration of all things spooky, frightening, gory and violent. And of course a candy binge to make it all family friendly. It also has a generally tacky and non homogenous quality to it.
My knowledge of the Day of the Dead holiday was limited to a mysterious and seemingly macabre celebration which made little sense. Day of the Dead is not a significant part of North American culture, even for many latinos. I too thought of it as a Mexican version of Halloween, if I thought of it at all. I've come to recognize it as something with so much more meaning and beauty than Halloween could ever hold.
Day of the Dead is the new version of a tradition that predates Colombus and the European invasion of the New World. The Aztecs, Mayans and other great cultures of mesoamerica once celebrated the spirits of their ancestors. Tradition called for processions, cooking and ceremonies to take place for a month or more. The purpose of the celebration was to respect, invite and accomodate our ancestors back in the land of the living.
This is now achieved by individual families creating beautiful "ofrendas" or "offerings" in English. Ofrendas are usually homemade altars adorned with flowers, photos and the favorite foods or liquor of a families dead loved ones. It is never meant to be frightening or depressing. It is an offering of love for the dead. It is not meant to be dark or morbid.
Many families in Mexico and central America go to great lengths to create beautiful ofrendas which are very much a work of art and labor of love. It is a form of grieving that is public, yet never morose or dramatic. It is a celebration without rowdy debauchery. A constant reminder that all of this world is temporary.
A major symbol of Day of the Dead is the orange (sometimes yellow) marigold flower known as the Cempasuchil. The state of Puebla is ground zero for the harvesting of this ancient flower and produces the bulk of the nations supply.
The Aztecs believed this flower possessed healing powers. It has become a symbol for life, eternity and now a symbol for the Day of the Dead. It is used as a decoration or garnish for many artistic concepts surrounding Day of the Dead. It can be worn as a wreath or crown, used as hair decorations or just carried in bouquets.
If you like tip toeing through a nice field of flowers, I would recommend a visit to Cholula, where you will be greeted not only with cempasuchiles, but also views of the great church of Cholula (set atop the largest pyramid complex on Earth) and views of the legendary volcano Popocatépetl.
From a photographers point of view, the smartest time of day to visit the fields in October would be first thing in the morning, when the Poblano sky is usually clear and the lighting is optimal. But do bring bug repellent. We learned the hard way that the fields make for fertile mosquito spawning. This time of year there are regular afternoon showers caused by the the trapped clouds in this volcanic valley.
The area around the sports fields, south of the archaeological site, were the most filled out fields during our visit. Feel free to speak to locals and ask for permission to enter the fields. No one seems to mind whatsoever.
Another favorite and manicured place to see these flowers alive is near the Angel of Independence in Mexico City. The beds of flowers make for some great perspective shots and contrast nicely with the cityscape.
The island Janitzio in the state of Michoacan is said to be one of the most hardcore observers of this holiday. The tons of cempasuchiles brought to the island bear witness to the most dense ofrenda displays imagineable. Lasting all night, the celebration in Janitizio was an inspiration for the artistry found in the animated film Coco. The cempasuchiles pave the roads in Janitzio as they do in the land of the dead.
I'll be writing a blog post, perhaps next spring, about my favorite flower events around the world. More than most, the cempasuchiles of the Day of the Dead remind us of the fleeting nature of all things we are surrounded by.
The traditional Mexican decor of papel picado, floral designs and calavera art is prominent in central Mexico. Take a stroll down Calle De Sopena in Guanajuato city and all traffic will be relegated to the sidewalks. The city fills the street ways with powder arts, flowers and calavera death themes. Revelers are respectful and maintain a safe walking distance.
Passing the famous Teatro Juarez, you'll find the popular large scale sugar skulls. Stake out your corner of the steps for some good people watching or grab a quesadilla from one of the nearby street vendors.
Getting away from the crowds, you can duck into any of the randomly placed subway style entrances to the cities underground tunnels. Relics of the city's mining glory days, now used as shortcuts around the cities multiple levels. It's easy to follow the crowds or wander on your own through this colorful colonial city, another inspiration for the movie Coco.
Pay a visit to any cemetery across most of Mexico and you will find many ofrendas, orange marigold flowers, mariachi bands playing festive music and of course the gathered families of the dead. I strongly recommend a visit. As I walked through the cemetery of San Miguel de Allende, I was truly touched to see the labor that went in to honoring the memory of so many loved ones. I'm not easily moved but the cemetery was a touching and heartfelt display of people connecting with each other that is rarely seen in the United States. A process of grieving that is somber but not excessive. A more profound connection to family exists here than in the cultures of North America.
Should you take my advice and find yourself in a cemetery during the peak hours of Day of the Dead, best not to wear face paint or do anything that may otherwise be disrespectful. Remember, while this is a celebration, it is not a party. Being respectful of the culture is key and this is simply not Halloween.
For those that love a parade and want a more festive atmosphere, many cities in Mexico now host multiple parades of Catrines and Catrinas. Catrines and the iconic Catrina are the iconic symbols of Day of the Dead and all of Mexico. Invented in the 19th century, these characters were invented as a spoof of high society, especially that of Europe. Always dressed well, La Catrina has become her own style. The image of La Catrina is profoundly beautiful. Her message shows that no matter the worldly adornments, death smiles at us all.
La Calavera Catrina was born of the satirical mind of Jose Posada. Though he died as a lesser known artist, Posada's hometown of Aguascalientes now hosts a Catrina parade and a museum dedicated to his art.
On our recent visit to Aguascalientes, we toured both Posada's museum and the National Museum of Death. The latter is a well organized and curated museum showing the Mexican and mesoamerican traditional potrayals of death in art. A beautiful collection of inspiring pieces. The concept of death was displayed in magnificent and satirical glory. Whether you are a Mexican farmer, a dandy, an imperialist or a faschist, death comes for us all.
While Aguascalientes, Mexico City and San Miguel de Allende host some of the largest processions, some parades are organized by the cities themselves while others are put on by high end hotels or even local schools. Often the processions are headed by a festive brass band.
My friends and I were abruptly and unexpectedly swept up into a school procession in San Miguel de Allende. A hundred students and their families marching through the streets of San Miguel engulfed us in their festivities. All covered in face paint. All together, marching towards life and death. The band played as we danced through the streets. The energy was extraordinary.
Dress to impress. Day of the Dead is not for looking drab. Visit a quality makeup artist and join the procession. Grab a wreath of cempasuchiles or a black brimmed hat if you're feeling it. Enjoy the parade. Death is a promise, so don't take life too seriously.
As the Spaniards quickly conquered the New World, many natives were put in a position of preserving their cultures hidden behind the dominating Spanish culture. Though countless traditions were lost, the Day of the Dead became a way of merging the Christian holiday of All Saints Day with the native traditions. All Saints Day is, after all, the Christian and European tradition of venerating all pious dead Christians. The celebration is now relegated to the days of October 31, November 1 and November 2 which correspond with All Saints and All Souls Day. This is where the paralells begin to separate. This is where, no matter your religious beliefs, we can meditate on death, loss and our ancestors.
I would encourage anyone to come and participate in this truly New World tradition. A sentimental, artistic and tasteful celebration which may just change your perspective on how we grieve and mourn.