Amsterdam, far out
When I started travelling, Amsterdam had little appeal. I started drinking and using drugs in my teens. Things got bad for me quickly and by the time I was 19 years old I was facing a clear choice of either getting sober or choosing a life I knew would only get worse. I gave up my efforts to fix my problems on my own and took all the help I could get. I haven't drank or done drugs since and it's been the best decision of my life by far.
Throughout my whole life on the American continent, I heard about Amsterdam. A mecca for drug use. The relaxed laws and progressive society made Amsterdam sound like a party paradise. A place that partiers, hippies, addicts and alcoholics longed for.
After sobering up at 19, I still had this mental image of Amsterdam. Many of us raised in the Americas have thought the same way. Because of this reputation, the city had no allure. It wasnt until I started travelling the world that I realized I had the completely wrong idea about what I would find.
In my 20's I started talking with other travellers who loved Amsterdam. They described a city filled with history, canals, architecture, art, Tulips and most importantly: pancakes. My interest was piqued.
So late one summer, I went to Amsterdam for the first time. I planned out a trip around Holland and Belgium with Amsterdam being the starting city. I loved it so much that its become a favorite return destination.
Despite the occasional wafting clouds of weed smoke, I found a city that was not as advertised. The parties were raging in the summer heat of the red light district but the side streets of Amsterdam were organically mellow. Walking along the canals in the morning and night were a pleasure, appreciable in all states of conciousness.
For the culture vultures, Amsterdam offers some of the very best museums I've ever visited. Though somber, the Anne Frank museum is touching, poignant and informative. The museum is also well organized and doles out information in a way that is both dense yet manageable as you pass through the building where the end of her life took place.
If feeling particularly somber after the Anne Frank museum, cheer yourself up with pancakes at the Pancake House on Berenstraat. I've managed to eat there atleast once on every visit. American pancakes with bacon or blueberries and ice cream. You're welcome.
The Van Gogh museum has become my favorite artist centered museum. The rockstar post-impressionist artist : These museums are two of the cities biggest attractions and of you can, buy tickets online as early as possible to skip the line.
Taking in the ritzy 17th century Dutch architecture I grew to admire the structural lean towards the canals. The traditional hoists on the houses which were used for moving into the buidings in a vertically efficent fashion. The wide open window curtains to show all the world some private debauchery. They started to feel a bit like a metropolitan pirate's home, if the pirate was particularly posh.
I've heard rumblings of closing off access to the center of the city to cars. This would bring it in line with carless city centers such as Venice, reduce clutter and greatly improve the beauty of the city. Most residents drive bicycles in the center anyway. Many guides will suggest renting a bicycle but the Centrum is also easily explored on foot or by tram.
The city has a unique vibe and aesthetic, yet simultaneously lacks major central monuments. There is no Eiffel tower or Big Ben equivalent. This is a merciful relief. The closest icon was the IAmsterdam sign. Though the sign has been removed since my last visit, I won't miss it.
The Rijksmuseum could change its name to the museum of old selfies. Before Instagram, Snapchat and the Kardashian ancestors set foot in America, the portrait existed for the rich and "glamorous" of the Netherlands elite. These pale faced beauties sat for hours to have portraits made in honor of themselves. I find it more than a bit ironic that the city of Amsterdam decided to remove the IAmsterdam sign because too many tourists wanted pictures in front of it despite the fact that the museum behind it is filled with 17th century vanity images.
If feeling particularly sober after the Rijksmuseum and tourist center of the city, stuff yourself silly at Burger Zachen. A classic metal burger bar, the name is a Dutch play on words but there wagyu beef burger is to die for. You're welcome.
Though I don't partake in the far out experiences on offer in Amsterdam, a friend of mine did indulge in some special "cigarettes" and pastries. We ambled through Vondelpark, where my friend was attacked by a deformed bird, a friendly homeless man actually gave us money and we enjoyed the lovely gazebo that seemed to drown in flowers. Though I was sober, the experience reminded me of the bizarre happenstances of drug addled adventures. I don't miss it one bit, but it was fun to see someone enjoying responsibly.
Committing a bit of Latino sacrilege, some of the best breakfast chorizo I've ever had is found at a hip artisanal restaurant named Little Collins. If you like classic breakfast fare with the hipster touch, look no further. Afterwards, get a fresh stroopwaffel in all its sticky, sweet, gooey glory from a stand off the nearby Van Woustraat. You're welcome.
As you traverse the depravities of the red light district, a square but enjoyable visit to the Oude Kirk (or Oude Church) offers tours on an hourly basis. Great for any history lover to learn a nugget about the Dutch liberation from Spain and the influence of the Catholic church. Arriving to the top of the church at the end of your brief tour, you'll be rewarded with some great city views of Amsterdam.
With Chipsy King, the solution to your Amsterdam munchies are never far away. A local chain which opens early and offers feel good foods like burgers, sandwiches, pizzas and of course, chips! A bevy of sauces are at the ready to alter the realty of your potatoes flavor. You can't leave Amsterdam without having a try.
It should be noted that I have a keen interest in flowers and their connection to cultures around the world. The marigolds of Mexico, the cherry blossoms of Japan, the lavender fields of France. None of these can quite compare to the Tulips of the Netherlands. An epic bubble built around none other than Tulip markets caused a massive economic collapse in 1637 - forever tying one of the craziest boom and bust stories to Dutch history. You can learn more about Tulip Mania at the Tulip museum. A small and fascinating museum connected to a flower bulb shop. I'll be writing a separate blog post to cover my favorite places in the Amsterdam area to visit in Tulip season. Amsterdam is one of my favorite spring time destinations for this reason.
I look forward to another visit to this wondrous city and am grateful I've got so many vivid and sober memories of a truly storied and cultured city.
