Provence and the Lavender Fields of Valensole France, the scent of heaven
Late spring and early summer. It's almost time for the lavender fields to reach their peak bloom. The beauty of southern France truly comes alive in this season. Although its the pinnacle of the tourist calendar, the country side can be experienced without much disturbance because the cities are small and the roads are open. The perfect region for a European road trip.
Many people ask: how long should I spend in Provence or Valensole? The answer: as long as you can. If you have to limit yourself, any less than four days in the area may not be worth a visit. Though the traffic between towns and cities is fine, the drive times will last several hours and you should forget about public transit in the French countryside.
Like so many places, Valensole entered my dreams through Instagram. Limitless lavender, endless violet horizons and the quaint rural architecture all add up to create this picture perfect countryside. There are even theories that the cold Mistral Winds that run through the valleys effect the sunlight and give it a softer glow.
Arriving near the fields off Route de Puimoisson, the hills grow taller. The rows become more graceful. The trees more sparse. Finding the right field is easy and you'll know once you've arrived.
Walking through these purple meadows is as simple as pulling over to the side of the road and walking in. No fences, no entrance fees, no warnings against trespassing. Just open and rolling farm hills. The desktop background of choice for Windows come to life.
The farmers in the area seem to unanimously agree that all the visitors are good for business. Few no trespassing signs are found except on certain small roads. The very few signs are hard to miss. Seasonal small farmstand shops and businesses can be found on the sides of the country highways in the region. They sell any product imaginable that can be infused with lavender. Not to mention the varieties of lavender oils, sprays and soaps. They make fantastic gifts and many support the local farmers directly. If you visit, please be respectful so that future generations can visit and keep these customs and practices accessible.
Sunrise or sunset. It doesn't matter when you arrive, there will be bees by the thousands. Don't be afraid. They are extremely friendly and sting no one. As you walk through the rows, you'll hear them all around you. Seriously, don't worry about getting stung.
We were fortunate to arrive early one morning as the land started to warm. Thousands of bees buzzed there way across the fields in swarms. It was a fascinating migration to watch. As you walk through the rows, you'll hear them all around you. Seriously, don't worry about getting stung.
Yes of course you'll find other travellers, particularly photographers, but if you feel a place growing too crowded all you have to do is walk further into the fields. And walk you should. The more time you spend in the fields, the longer that enchanting scent of lavender will linger on the clothes you wear.
I spent an entire day wandering the different fields of only Valensole. Tranquil and meditative. A feast for the senses as well. I could have easily spent more. Valensole, but really Provence as a whole, should be enjoyed at a leisurely pace.
If country tranquility is something you crave, there are many lux farm style bed and breakfasts in the region. Some provide access to their own fields of lavender.
The ever popular and oft photographed Abbaye of Senanque is in Gordes France. Though I find it a bit overrated, it is a must see for those who are lovers of the region. Certainly one of the icons of Provence.
Of course, few people visit Provence strictly for the lavender fields. Many tie the lavender fields into a visit to the French riviera. The Cotes d'Azur region is very closeby and easily reached but I found my experiences in the Cotes d'Azur region to be quite different than my experiences in the more inland Provence, despite how close they were. For the purposes of this blog post, I'll be focusing more on the "Provencey" side of the region.
There are three small cities that usually end up high on the list of must-sees. They are quite easy to reach by car but are unquestionably better explored on foot. Parking also presents its own challenges. To get a feel for these cities and truly appreciate their contribution to Provencial culture, several days atleast are recommended.
Arles, an inspiration to mega artist Van Gogh, is one of the celebrated towns of Provence. A local hub of the Roman empire, the city still bears its amphitheatre which hosts bull fights, a spillover tradition from the Iberian regions.
Avignon, a seat of Catholic power in the 14th century and home to the medieval era Palais des Papes. The palace was home to several medieval Popes and as such, you can expect it to follow medieval standards of grandeur with vaulted ceilings and high towers.
Aix en Provence, my personal favorite, is perhaps the least exhaulted of the big three Provence towns. It is also the largest in population. Aix has quaint streets full of old buildings of various shades. Lined with small businesses and shops, Aix is a great city to stroll through and take in. A combination of vibrant yet understated colors and earth tones add a pleasantly southern French ambiance.
Across these small towns, the mornings are generally less busy but become quite full of tourists by the summer afternoon. If you're short on time, I'd frankly not bother trying to cram short visits in. The terrible parking situation alone is a good enough deterrent.
My next blog post will focus on Marseilles, the capital of Provence. Deciding to split the region further was difficult but the south of France is diverse and deserves to be treated as such. You can find it here!
In short, Valensole has long been considered to be the capital of Lavender and to possess best lavender fields on Earth in terms of both quality and beauty. As a lover of France, flowers and the smell of lavender, the fields of Provence and Valensole were a must do. An experience I won't soon forget.
If you’re heading to the French Riviera, be sure to check out the Cotes d’Azur!
