Rio, the City of Marvels
As a travel blogger and photographer, it's very easy to get lost in hyperbole. It's easy to say a place has sublime beauty, a distinct culture and surreal scenery. And all that could easily be said about Rio. When I started writing about my experiences I noticed just how limited my vocabulary really is. Despite the fact that I've learned so many words during my travels, it doesn't prepare me to describe a city like Rio. But I'll give it a go anyway.
Rio is a city both large and small. It is geographically massive and is home to a large population but most of the top sights can be seen from one well placed rooftop. From the pool level of my last hotel in Ipanema, I could see the elegant Dos Irmaoes mountains roll into the sea, Christ the redeemer perched high above Parque Lage, even the top of Pao do Azucar and the glittering favelas built into the slopes that separated us. And a 20 minute walk from that hotel would bring me to Arpoador rock where Ipanema beach ends and Copacabana begins.
If you're someone who likes to lounge, take in easy views and values an incredible beach, Ipanema is your place.
The beaches of Ipanema and neighboring Leblon are also filled with one of the highest concentrations of good looking people on the planet. In a town obsessed with fitness, Ipanema makes sense. Exercise stations line the beach fronts. Açai, one of the biggest health fads of the 2000's, is ubiquitous. An abundance of clothing stores for any budget are found within one or two blocks of the beach front. Cariocas are a people who define beach fashion (and pubic hair maintenance) after all. Aside from a helicopter, Ipanema beach is also my favorite place to watch a long Brazilian summer sunset in December or January.
I’ve spent a lot of time lounging on Ipanema and when I’ve gotten hungry, a steak or salchicha sandwich from the Barraca do Uruguai beach tent near post 9 has always hit the spot. Thank me later. I have a growing number of vegan and vegetarian friends so all I can say is sinto muito! Of course this place is run by Uruguayans so perhaps it would be more appropriate to say lo lamento. Maybe try some of their bread with chimichurri sauce? They also offer a big variety of fresh juices, added sugar optional. The Spanish spoken at this tent is also distinctive. Remember its po-sho, not pollo.
Perhaps you’d rather not see all of those young beach goers and a more family oriented beach is your thing? Copacabana beach is a short walk or cab ride away.
Lots of children and families playing soccer in the tides by high noon. Though I prefer the beauty of Ipanema, Copacabana offers easy access to other parts of the city. Hungry again? Check out a local favorite for Acai at Casa Do Acai on Rua Siquiera Campos. I’d recommend a classic Acai of bananas and honey. You can also add yogurt, condensed milk, grains and other fruits. I prefer mine blended. Unlike Barraca do Uruguai, the vegan or vegetarian has plenty of options!
Maybe you're more of a backpacker or a party person? Santa Teresa's old colonial and grungy bohemian atmosphere is there for you. The famous Escadaria Selarón draws in all types of locals and visitors with a colorful group of revelers and tourists alike. The area is rimmed with bars for the thirsty. If you’re the type who loves to see the icons then it’s a bit of a must but beyond some drinks, revelry and people watching, the staircase offers little else. Santa Teresa is a beautiful neighborhood that is well worth a walk around for it’s old architecture, charming trolley cars and unexpected views over the city. This is also the setting of many romantic dining locations and is well off the beaten beach path.
Craving the energy of a more modern metropolis? As the name implies, the Centro is the heart of the cities corporate world but also houses some of the oldest churches of the city which harken back to the city’s founding. The most impressive interiors are the Seo Francisco da Penitencia, Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Monte do Carmo and the Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Sebastian
Can you read Portuguese? Then you’ll love the Royal Portuguese Cabinet of Reading – the largest collection of Portuguese literature outside of Portugal. The place is very photogenic but whatever you do, DON’T sit on the floor to take a photo. They HATE that. Don’t ask me how I know.
Are you outdoorsy? Holy crap did you pick the right city. Most of Rio is actually mountains, parks, hiking trails and nature preserves. My personal favorite is Pedra Bonita because it’s an easy hike with awesome views and I’m lazy. Looking for a challenge? Pedra da Gavea is the gold standard for hiking Rio. I’ve heard it offers stellar views but I’ve yet to take the hike. Maybe some day…
Tijuca National Park also offers many trails and is allegedly home to sloths. I spent a day searching for one but couldn’t find any of those sneaky two toed tree rugs. I adore watching sloths move and the creepy way they rotate their heads. This is not the first time I’ve wasted a day in search of one and it won’t be the last. I was compensated by seeing glorious butterflies, friendly monkeys and even finding some ice cream vendors.
Parque Lage and the Jardim Botanico also offer an interesting layout which merges the jungle with the surreal architecture. Explore the park or continue on to the famous Christ the Redeemer. But when it comes to views over the city, Mirante Dona Marta is hands down my favorite. At sunrise, the lookout provides an incredible view of Guanabara bay and makes for some lovely photos. Just be sure to take a cab there as the area is rumored to be very dicey in the dark and ride sharing companies won’t drive there for a fare.
Of the major draws to Rio, taking the cable cars to the top of Sugar Loaf mountain seems to reign as one of the favorites. The views and journey are nice if not a little overhyped. I remember buying a pair of Havaianas on the way up. Commercial comforts have taken over the mountain.
If it is within your budget, I would strongly recommend a helicopter ride. Rio is a city of landscape view after landscape view and the helicopter tour is the most incredible way to soak it all in. I’ve loved them so much I’ve done two so far. I rate Rio as one of the most beautiful cities on the planet, right up there with Paris and Havana. But getting above it all is one of the best ways to appreciate just how marvelous it is.
On my first visit to Rio in 2016, I drove out to the now famous Pedra do Telegrafo. Spent the night in the town of Barra De Guaratiba and woke up the next morning to hike the trails. For those of you who don’t know, Pedra do Telegrafo is a renowned rock that is perfect for creating an optical illusion in which it appears that you, or your friends, or your entire family are perched on a dangerous cliff overlooking the mountains and sea of Rio. In 2016 if you didn’t get there at the crack of sunrise, the line was about one and a half hours to create this illusion. The line to take the photo was longer than the hike. I hate to think how long the line is now. I woke up before dawn and set out to hike to the top of the mountain. The trail sign was not posted anywhere. I spent easily an hour wandering around town for the trail. By the time I found the trail, it was well past sunrise. Fortunately along the way I was able to make friends with a Brazilian family that spoke some Spanish and adopted me into their group. Quirky, fun and eager to chat, the hike was made so much better with their presence. I didn’t bother waiting in line at the Pedra do Telegrafo but I’ll always cherish the memory of that hike.
Many people often look at Rio as a dream destination but worry about crime. While caution is always advised in any dicey situation, I would encourage anyone to local encounters. The spirit of travel is connection and the connections are abundant in the city of Marvels.
