Sakura in Japan
Sakura season in Japan casts a spell on both foreigner and local alike. All things change with seasons. The only constant is change.
The beginning of April is more than just a beautiful blossoming of the fabled cherry trees, it is an awakening for the Japanese people as well. Another beautiful springtime destination and another opportunity to embarass myself with my awful butchery of the Japanese language.
Japanophile? I don't know if that's a thing or not but if it is, I am certainly one. Japan has been at the forefront of art, poetry, animation, technology and trade for decades but a standout characteristic of the culture is it's connection to flowers. Even early Dutch traders held Japanese floral arrangers in the highest regard of the art. This praise must mean something coming from people who literally valued Tulip bulbs over mansions.
If the Tulip is the icon of the Netherlands, then the cherry blossom is undoubtedly the icon of Japan.
It speaks to the spirit of the native Shinto natural beliefs and puts tremendous emphasis on the natural law of constant change. Though I've experienced Japan in other seasons, I am repeatedly drawn back to Sakura.
The cherry blossoms may only last just a few days or as long as two weeks. This is the entire season until next year. So much passion and beauty, so passing and fragile. The Japanese of course are aware of this and absorb it to the fullest.
After a chilly winter, the beginning of warmth creeps into Tokyo in late March and early April. The first time I visited Japan was in the winter. The attitude of the Japanese takes on an almost tangible form as the land heats up and the flowers bud. An energy and comraderie takes the air.
Hanami is the act of flower viewing. Often enjoyed with friends and family on a tarp or blanket underneath a cherry tree in a picnic style. Sakura is the season but Hanami is the name of the game. My favorite Hanami spot in Tokyo was also my first: Sumida Park.
It was my first time experiencing Sakura and I was travelling with my good friend, Dom. Unlike myself, Dom somehow had an incredible ability to not only learn but also retain Japanese. As we walked through Sumida Park, the buds were opening around us. The massive Skytree loomed above our heads. This park is the great contrast of new and old.
We neared a small raggedy gazebo near the middle of the park. Four old boys were sitting inside the gazebo, drinking beer and eating chicken. As we approached the gazebo, one of them called out "Hi!" and they all giggled in the kind of way that a group of aged men giggle only after a few drinks. My friend, seeing an opportunity to talk with anyone but me, enthusiasticly returned the greeting and they gestured for us to join them. My friend struck up a conversation in Japanese. I sat and listened to the conversation, impatiently interrupting Dom to translate what was going on. The men gave us chicken kabobs and chuckled as I used my best English adjectives such as "yum" and "good." Impressively, Dom held his own in the conversation. Suddenly all the old boys burst into laughter and Dom became a bit confused. I turned to Dom and asked what was so funny? Dom, growing more confused, turned to me and said "I think they said I... look like a baby..." The old boys said something else and all burst into another round of laughter. Suddenly, not confused, Dom said "Yep, they definitely think I look like a baby."
The river walk of Nakameguro is also another eternal favorite. The optic photos of the enclosed river, flanked flanked in pink blossoms and lanterns, is an instant classic.
On my most recent visit, Sumida park swelled with photographers and tourists but were all outnumbered by enthusiastic locals and people displaying the colorful and traditional celebratory kimonos of Japan. Definitely my favorite park in Tokyo.
To me, this experience is unthinkable in the Japanese winter. Aside from the fact that I have only a few token phrases of Japanese, my experiences during Sakura have shown me that if you want to make friends in Japan, this time of year is uninhibited.
Another favorite Sakura location in Tokyo is the quiet Aoyama cemetery lined with blossoms and a parade of Japan's distinctive Toyota taxis. Though there are significantly less Hanami goers in the cemetery, the abundance of narrow lanes and cherry blossoms makes for some incredible photo possibilities. As long as you're in the neighborhood, Aoyama's Zenkoji Temple is an off the beaten path temple with almost no visitors and several beautifully placed cherry blossom trees. Thanks to it's old gate, the temple can be framed nicely for photos.
Outside of the big city, Matsumoto draws many admirers for its large black castle keep which contrasts well with the white and pink blossoms makes. It is one of the few surviving original castle keeps, making it a popular spot for a dose of Japanese history.
On my first visit to Matsumoto, a large line formed to enter the interior of the keep. The courtyard provided more photo ops with not only cherry trees but also some kitschy ninjas. At the time of my first visit, it was 2016 and I had grown my hair out. I was following the western trend of the almighty manbun. Standing in line, an elderly Japanese woman reached up and gave my bun a little squeeze and squealed with joy saying "Bushi!" She then explained: "Hair cut of Japanese warrior!" I laughed to myself and realized maybe it was time for a new hairdo.
Of Japan's premier castle keeps, Himeji is the famous standout. Not only for its shimmering white wings but also for the variety of viewing angles with Sakura blossoms. It has featured in many movies over the years, but perhaps most famously in the Bond film "You Only Live Twice."
One morning I decided to traverse the area around the castle for some fresh perspectives. After an hour of wandering the grounds, I found a cluster of old boy photographers in a more remote corner of the moat. They had staked out the perfect positions to capture the Sakura, the castle and the reflection in all it's morning glory. Expecting to find the right angle occupied, I nearly discounted this spot until the kindly photographers noticed me lurking and decided to make room in a prime spot for me. Though we didn't speak the same language, the bonding of those with a passion gave us fraternity.
Just don't touch the blossoms. Touching the trees this time of year is a big no no as they are cherished beings.
Travelling around Kyoto offers a variety of opportunities to see some sweet blossoms. This time of year, everyone has Sakura fever. You'll catch loads of locals and tourists posing, shooting and otherwise celebrating the glory of the blossom. The hot tourist spots are the philosopher's path, the Heian shrine, the Jingu Torii gate and the ever popular Gion district.
An almost unknown place, Takenaka-inari-jinja Shrine in Kyoto will provide you with some solitude. The walkway to the temple entrance is a visual blend of the iconic torii gates interlaced with cherry blossom trees. This spot is a rare combo of Japanese icons and no tourists. It provides the quiet solace that I've grown to love about Japan. My favorite photo spot of Kyoto and still an "undiscovered" gem.
I also heartily recommend tracking down the Randen Kitano trolley line as it passes through the Sakura lined hills between Narutaki and Utano stations. The views from the front of the train are delightful and can make some fun photos. Thank me later.
On my most recent Sakura visit, I got the chance to visit Hikone castle. Smaller and off the big tourism radar, Hikone had virtually no drone restrictions. For landscape photography, you could do alot worse than Hikone castle, especially with the mighty Lake Biwa in the background. Though the castle is a bit out of the way, the lack of foreign tourism was a big draw and the nearby hotels were shockingly cheap. Not to be mistaken with the resort town of Hakone, this hamlet is about an hour northeast of Kyoto by train. Hikone offers another original and iconic Japanese castle but without the international fame. Though I was not impressed with it's rather small keep, this place is a drone photographer's dream. Unlike Japan's other major castles, Hikone has no drone restrictions on it's grounds. The elevation provides incredible opportunities for compositions, especially when the cherry blossoms around the castle are visible.
Japan is a nation connected by trains. My favorite stretch of lines are found on the way to Mt. Fuji in the springtime. No self respecting blog post on Japan could be complete without atleast mentioning Mt. Fuji. On three different visits to Japan, I ventured to Mt. Fuji. Sadly, my first two visits were bogged down by days of clouds and, other than brief glimpses of Fujisan from the train, I did not get to see this incredible uber mountain. Fortune was on my side in my latest visit where I dedicated a week to the region. The cherry blossoms, lakes and train rides were icon overload. Anyone looking to explore the Fuji Five Lake region will need plenty of time to get around and I suggest spending a minimum of five days in the region, no matter what time of year you visit.
I recommend traveling loosely across Japan during this time of year. Due to the current widespread illness in Asia, most will not visit in 2020. But if the Japanese culture and Hanami teach us anything, it is that change is constant and the flowers will return. Celebrate what we have while we have and keep living.
